Recommended books:

-Margiela, The Hermès years
-Maison Martin Margiela
-A Magazine curated by Martin Margiela - ... (TODO : extend this list, I'm getting monomaniac)

To read books:

-Worn, A people's history of clothing, Sofi Thanhauser
-Fashion-ology, Yuniya Kawamura, 2018
-Fashioning Japanese Subcultures, Yuniya Kawamura, 2012
-The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion, Yuniya Kawamura, 2004
-La mort de l'auteur, Roland Barthes

Authors to dig into

Yuniya Kawamura

Go see archivepdf.net (loads of fashion books' PDF on there)